Seljuk Caravanserais and the Long Road

Aksaray lay right in the middle of the great trade route known as the “Long Road” (Uzun Yol), which linked the Seljuk capital Konya with Kayseri, Sivas and Persia. One of the main Anatolian branches of the Silk Road, it made medieval Aksaray rich.

Seljuk sultans and statesmen built monumental caravanserais along the road, roughly a day’s caravan journey apart. In this guide we describe the four most important inns around Aksaray and how to see them in a day.

Why were caravanserais built?

The Seljuks put trade at the heart of state policy. To secure the roads, attract merchants and raise tax revenue, they built fortress-like inns on the main routes. Funded by pious endowments, the inns offered travellers free food, fodder and lodging, along with baths, a mosque, stables and even care for sick merchants.

A typical caravanserai has two parts: an open courtyard lined with arcades for summer use, and a vaulted covered hall for winter. In the middle of the courtyard there is usually a small “kiosk mosque” raised on four piers.

Sultanhanı: Turkey’s largest caravanserai

Sultanhanı Caravanserai stands about 42 km west of Aksaray on the road to Konya. Its inscription dates it to 1229, in the reign of Sultan Alaeddin Kayqubad I, built by the Syrian architect Muhammad bin Khawlan al-Dimashqi. After a fire partly destroyed it, the governor Seraceddin Ahmed Kerimeddin bin El Hasan restored and extended it in 1278.

The 13-metre marble portal on the east façade, with its muqarnas-filled pointed arch and geometric patterns, is one of the high points of Seljuk stone carving. The kiosk mosque in the middle of the 44 × 58 m courtyard is considered the oldest in Turkey. A second portal across the courtyard opens into the vaulted covered hall, lit by a dome with an oculus.

The inn also gave its name to the Battle of Sultanhanı, fought in 1256 between the Mongol commander Baiju and the Seljuk army. The surrounding town is known for carpets today, carrying on the Aksaray carpet tradition praised by Ibn Battuta.

Ağzıkarahan: a merchant’s endowment

Ağzıkarahan lies at around km 15 of the Aksaray–Nevşehir road. It is considered one of the most important and richly decorated caravanserais built by non-royal patrons. Foundation inscriptions record that the covered section was finished in June 1231 under Alaeddin Kayqubad I and the courtyard in February 1240 under Kaykhusraw II; the patron was Mes’ud, son of Abdullah.

Its monumental portal with a muqarnas canopy and the kiosk mosque on four piers, reached by stairs, are among the finest of their kind. The inn is part of the “Seljuk Caravanserais on the route from Denizli to Doğubeyazıt” on UNESCO’s World Heritage Tentative List.

Alay Han: one of the first sultan’s inns

Alay Han stands about 34 km from Aksaray on the Nevşehir road, on sloping ground covering some 2,000 m². It is attributed to Sultan Kılıç Arslan II and considered one of the first Seljuk sultan’s inns in Anatolia; some sources date it to 1192.

Known in Seljuk times as the “Pervane Ribatı”, it probably took its present name from a nearby village. A restoration begun in 2008 rebuilt its covered hall and muqarnas portal.

Öresin Han: a simple stop on the road

Öresin Han, locally also called Tepesi Delik Han, is about 24 km from Aksaray. With no inscription, its patron and date are unknown; its architecture suggests the Seljuk period.

This small inn without a courtyard is built of cut and reused stone, with a dome rising over the crossing of two long halls at its centre. It has no decoration and was probably used for short stops between the great sultan’s inns.

A caravanserai route: four inns in a day

Drive west from Aksaray to Sultanhanı (about 45 minutes) and stop at Lake Tuz on the way back; the next day, follow the eastern line of Ağzıkarahan, Öresin Han and Alay Han. The eastern line also combines easily with a trip to Cappadocia (Nevşehir).

See our Aksaray itineraries for a day-by-day plan and our history of Aksaray for the full story of the Seljuk city. Opening hours and fees may change, so check official sources before you set off.

• West: Neva Apart → Sultanhanı (42 km) → Lake Tuz → Neva Apart
• East: Neva Apart → Ağzıkarahan (15 km) → Öresin Han (24 km) → Alay Han (34 km)

Where to stay in Aksaray

Neva Apart offers fully equipped serviced apartments with kitchens in Aksaray city centre, a few minutes’ walk from the Zinciriye Madrasa and the Grand Mosque. It is an ideal base for day trips to Ihlara, Selime, Güzelyurt and the Seljuk caravanserais.

Browse our apartments, read guest reviews or contact us for bookings and route tips. Every stop is listed on our things to do in Aksaray page.

Sources

• Kültür Portalı – Sultanhanı Kervansarayı
• Wikipedia – Sultan Han
• Wikipedia – Ağzıkara Han
• UNESCO Tentative List – The Seljuk Caravanserais on the route from Denizli to Doğubeyazıt

Image credits

• The ashlar façade and towers of the Sultanhanı Caravanserai – José Luis Filpo Cabana, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
• Kiosk mosque and hall portal in the courtyard of the Ağzıkarahan – Ingeborg Simon, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
• The muqarnas portal of the Sultanhanı Caravanserai – zolakoma, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons
• The portal to the covered hall of the Ağzıkarahan – Ingeborg Simon, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
• The restored covered hall of the Alay Han with its muqarnas portal – Calistemon, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
• The vaulted central aisle of the Öresin Han – Falk2, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons