Ihlara Valley

Ihlara Valley, in Aksaray’s Güzelyurt district, runs between Ihlara and Selime and is counted among the most impressive canyons in the world. Historical sources call it Peristrema (Greek for “winding round”), after the old name of Belisırma village halfway along the valley.

According to the Ministry of Culture and Tourism’s Kültür Portalı, 105 churches have been identified in the valley, 14 of which are open to visitors. Flowing between sheer walls, the Melendiz creates a near-Mediterranean microclimate in the middle of the steppe, which is why the valley floor stays green all summer.

How the valley was formed

Ihlara Valley was carved over thousands of years by the Melendiz River, flowing across ground that had subsided after tectonic uplift and the eruptions of Mount Hasan. Small streams from the Melendiz Mountains join and flow south-east to north-west into the Mamasın Dam.

Kültür Portalı notes that the river makes nearly thirty meanders: Ilısu and Selime are 10 km apart as the crow flies, but the water travels about 18 km. The canyon is 100–150 metres deep in places. In antiquity the river was called Potamus Kapadukus — “the river of Cappadocia”.

• Length: about 14 km (Ihlara–Selime)
• Depth: 100–150 m in places
• Churches identified: 105 (14 open to visitors)
• Way down: a 382-step stairway at the Ihlara entrance

History: a valley of monks

From the 7th century Byzantine monks carved homes and churches into the soft tuff left by Mount Hasan’s eruptions. Church decoration continued from the 6th century until the end of the 13th. The monastic ideals of 4th-century Church Fathers raised in the region — Basil of Caesarea and Gregory of Nazianzus, closely associated with Güzelyurt — shaped Ihlara’s communities.

During the Arab raids the valley remained an active religious centre thanks to the defensive forts on Mount Hasan. Christian life continued after the Seljuks arrived and only ended with the 1924 population exchange.

Churches and frescoes

The churches fall into two groups by painting style. Those near Ihlara are decorated in a local “Cappadocian” style with eastern (Persian and Syrian) influences, and most pre-date Iconoclasm (726–843). Those near Belisırma show the “Byzantine” (Macedonian) style of the 10th and 11th centuries.

Ağaçaltı Church (Daniel Pantonassa)

A cross-in-square church cut into the cliff, probably dedicated to Daniel the Stylite and perhaps dating to the 7th century. The Ascension in its dome pre-dates Iconoclasm.

Yılanlı Church (Snake Church)

The 9th-century Hell scenes in its narthex, with sinners gripped by snake-like monsters, gave the church its modern name. Its unusually long apse is also striking.

Sümbüllü, Pürenliseki and Kokar churches

Sümbüllü Church, probably 10th century, marks the transition to the Macedonian style and depicts Constantine VII with his wife Helena. The frescoes of Pürenliseki Church date from the second half of the 9th to the second half of the 11th century, while Kokar Church is dedicated to Andrew the Apostle.

Direkli and Kırkdamaltı churches

An inscription in Direkli Church near Belisırma records its dedication under Emperor Basil II (976–1025). The inscription of Kırkdamaltı (St George’s) Church, dated 1283–1295, names both the Seljuk Sultan Mesud II and the Byzantine Emperor Andronikos II; the portrait of its donor Basil Giakoupes in Seljuk dress beside his wife Tamar is evidence of peaceful coexistence at the time.

Hiking routes

The full valley is a flat, riverside trail of about 14 km from Ihlara to Selime. The most popular section starts down the stairway at Ihlara, explores the stretch where the churches are concentrated and continues to Belisırma (about 3.5–4 km), where riverside restaurants offer a break.

• Short route: Ihlara stairway – Ağaçaltı – Belisırma (2–3 hours)
• Long route: Ihlara – Belisırma – Selime (5–6 hours)
• Other entrances: Belisırma village and Selime

Getting there from Neva Apart

Neva Apart is in Aksaray city centre, a few minutes’ walk from the Zinciriye Madrasa and the Grand Mosque; the distances below are measured from our aparthotel.

The main entrance is about 40 km from Neva Apart — a 40–45-minute drive on the Aksaray–Ihlara road. There is also an hourly public bus from the city centre to Ihlara. If you walk one way, plan a taxi or shuttle back from the valley exit.

Ask the Neva Apart reception for help with routes, parking, taxis or a day-trip plan — we are happy to suggest the most efficient order for exploring the area.

Tips for your visit

Spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October) are the best seasons for hiking. The valley floor is cool in summer, but the stairway and open stretches can be hot. Bring shoes with good grip, water, a hat and a small torch for the church interiors.

Opening hours and admission fees change seasonally; please check the official sources of the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism (muze.gov.tr, kulturportali.gov.tr) before you set off.

Read our guide to the churches of Ihlara Valley for each church in detail, and our Aksaray itineraries to see the area in a day.

Other places nearby

• Belisırma Village and Riverside Restaurants – Halfway along Ihlara Valley, with riverside restaurants on the Melendiz, rock-cut churches and a name it has carried since 1476 — the hikers’ rest stop.
• Selime Cathedral and Rock Monastery – At the northern end of Ihlara Valley, a rock-cut monastery with a three-aisled cathedral, kitchens and stables — one of the largest religious buildings in Cappadocia.
• Yaprakhisar Fairy Chimneys – At the northern end of Ihlara Valley between Selime and Belisırma, tuff cones with rock-cut rooms and a quiet Cappadocian village on the Melendiz.
• Güzelyurt (Gelveri) – A hill town tied to Gregory of Nazianzus, with stone mansions, rock-cut churches, underground cities and the Monastery Valley — one of the most authentic towns in Cappadocia.

Sources

• Kültür Portalı – Ihlara Vadisi (T.C. Kültür ve Turizm Bakanlığı)
• Wikipedia – Ihlara Valley
• T.C. Kültür ve Turizm Bakanlığı – Müzeler ve Ören Yerleri

Image credits

• Green canyon and tuff cliffs along the Melendiz stream in Ihlara Valley – Andrada Boldis, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
• Walking trail through the trees on the floor of Ihlara Valley – Jose Huwaidi, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
• Byzantine-era fresco in the Ağaçaltı Church, Ihlara Valley – smus, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
• Rock-cut entrance of the Yılanlı (Snake) Church in Ihlara Valley – Ji-Elle, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
• Fresco of Basil Giakoupes and Tamar flanking Saint George in the Kırkdamaltı (St George) Church – Kabz15, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons