Güzelyurt (Gelveri)

Güzelyurt (“beautiful homeland”) lies 45 km from Aksaray and 15 km from Ihlara Valley, at about 1,500 metres above sea level. Its former name was Gelveri, known in Cappadocian Greek as Karvali (Καρβάλη).

Known for three underground cities and more than 50 churches carved into the volcanic landscape, the town shows a quiet, authentic side of Cappadocia far from the tourist hubs. Its cut-stone mansions, narrow lanes and Monastery Valley are made for exploring on foot.

History

Güzelyurt holds an important place in the history of Christianity. Saint Gregory of Nazianzus (c. 329–390), one of the great 4th-century Church Fathers and Archbishop of Constantinople in 380–381, lived in the area and made Gelveri an important centre. Gregory was born on the family estate of Karbala near Arianzus; the name is thought to be linked with the town’s Greek name, Karvali.

A large Cappadocian Greek community lived here until the 1924 Greek–Turkish population exchange, when they moved to Nea Karvali near Kavala in Greece and Turks from Thessaloniki and Kavala settled in Güzelyurt. The monastery, churches, refuge caves and mansions bear witness to this shared past.

What to see

The town centre and its surroundings form a dense heritage area that can be seen in a few hours on foot.

Kilise Camii (Church of St Gregory)

The large Orthodox church in the lower quarter was built as a church in 1891, according to its inscription, and is now used as a mosque. It is dedicated to Saint Gregory.

Yüksek Kilise (High Church)

On Analipsis hill, overlooking the town and Güzelyurt Pond, the Church of St Analipsis is one of the best sunset viewpoints in the area. Stone Age remains have been found nearby.

Other churches and mansions

The Sivişli (St Anargiros), Ahmatlı, Koç and Çömlekçi churches, the Priest’s House (Papaz Evi) and Greek mansions lining the cobbled lanes are the town’s other highlights. Some mansions now operate as boutique hotels.

Underground cities

Güzelyurt is known for three underground cities, one of them in the village of Gaziemir. To learn how underground cities were used, see our page on the Saratlı Kırkgöz Underground City.

Gelveri bread

Gelveri bread, named after the town, is one of the area’s best-known specialities. Discover more in our guide to Aksaray cuisine.

Getting there from Neva Apart

Neva Apart is in Aksaray city centre, a few minutes’ walk from the Zinciriye Madrasa and the Grand Mosque; the distances below are measured from our aparthotel.

Güzelyurt is about 45 km from Neva Apart, a 45–50-minute drive. Combine it with Ihlara Valley (15 km) and the Red Church on the same day.

Tips for your visit

The town is hilly and cobbled; wear comfortable shoes. Be at Yüksek Kilise in the late afternoon for sunset. At this altitude evenings are cool even in summer.

For a deeper exploration, read our guide to Güzelyurt and the Monastery Valley.

Other places nearby

• Monastery Valley, Güzelyurt – Right below Güzelyurt, a quiet valley lined with rock-cut churches, chapels and dwellings — a peaceful Cappadocian walk.
• Red Church (Kızıl Kilise) – Near Sivrihisar village in Güzelyurt, a 6th-century church of reddish volcanic stone — one of the oldest churches in Cappadocia with a dome on a windowed drum.
• Ihlara Valley – A 14 km canyon carved by the Melendiz River into the tuff of Mount Hasan, with frescoed rock-cut churches, a green valley floor and Aksaray’s best-known hiking trail.
• Belisırma Village and Riverside Restaurants – Halfway along Ihlara Valley, with riverside restaurants on the Melendiz, rock-cut churches and a name it has carried since 1476 — the hikers’ rest stop.

Sources

• Wikipedia – Güzelyurt
• Wikipedia – Gregory of Nazianzus

Image credits

• Güzelyurt town and reservoir seen from the Yüksek Kilise hill – GMM, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
• An old street between stone houses in Güzelyurt – Julia Maudlin, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons
• Church of St Gregory of Nazianzus (Kilise Camii) in Güzelyurt – Klaus-Peter Simon, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons