Travel tips and city guides
Güzelyurt and the Monastery Valley: Western Gate of Cappadocia
Aksaray Guide ·
Güzelyurt is a quiet Cappadocian town about 45 km from Aksaray and 15 km from the Ihlara Valley, at around 1,500 metres. Its old name is Gelveri, Karvali (Καρβάλη) in Cappadocian Greek; Turkish sources say “Gelveri” combines the Greek words for “beautiful” and “water”.
Far from the busy tourist centres, the town — with its cut-stone mansions, rock-cut churches, underground cities and the Monastery Valley — is one of the most authentic corners of Cappadocia. In this guide we show how to see Güzelyurt in half a day or a full day.
Home town of Gregory of Nazianzus
Güzelyurt is linked with one of the great names of Christian history. Gregory of Nazianzus, a 4th-century Church Father and Archbishop of Constantinople in 380–381, was born on his family estate of Karbala near the village of Arianzus. The Catholic Church counts him among the Doctors of the Church, and the Orthodox Church honours him as one of the Three Holy Hierarchs with Basil of Caesarea and John Chrysostom.
After giving up his bishopric, Gregory retired to the family estate at Arianzus and spent his last six years there, writing most of his poetry. He died there around 25 January 390.
The 1924 exchange and the two Gelveris
A large Cappadocian Greek community lived in the town until the 1924 Greek–Turkish population exchange. The Greeks moved to Nea Karvali near Kavala in Greece, named after their home town, while Turks from Thessaloniki and Kavala settled in Güzelyurt.
This shared past is kept alive by friendship events between the two towns; Aksaray’s local festivals include an International Turkish–Greek Friendship and Brotherhood Culture Festival.
What to see in town
The centre of Güzelyurt is a dense heritage area you can see on foot in a few hours.
Church Mosque (Church of St Gregory)
The large Orthodox church in the lower quarter is dedicated to St Gregory. Built in the 19th century, it is now used as a mosque and is the most visited spot in town.
The High Church
Set on a hill overlooking the town and the Güzelyurt reservoir, the High Church (Yüksek Kilise) is one of the best sunset spots in the region.
Stone mansions and underground cities
Some of the Greek mansions along the cobbled streets are now boutique hotels. Güzelyurt is also known for three underground cities; to see how such cities were used, stop at the Saratlı Kırkgöz Underground City on the Aksaray road.
Walking the Monastery Valley
The Monastery Valley begins in the town and runs north. Its slopes are lined with rock-cut churches, chapels, dwellings and dovecotes; many of Güzelyurt’s more than 50 churches are in and around the valley.
The walk starts at the Church Mosque and follows a mostly level path. Allow 1.5–2 hours with stops. Do not enter neglected or dark rock chambers, and bring water and a hat — shade is limited.
- Kalburlu Church (Church of St Euthymios)
- Kömürlü Church, dedicated to St Anargyros
- Rock-cut dwellings, chapels and dovecotes
Nearby: the Red Church and Ihlara
South of Güzelyurt, near the village of Sivrihisar, the Red Church (Kızıl Kilise) rises alone on the steppe. Probably built in the 6th century, it is one of the oldest churches in Cappadocia with a dome on a windowed drum, and takes its name from its reddish volcanic stone. It has been on the World Monuments Watch since 2008.
The Ihlara Valley is 15 minutes from Güzelyurt. On the same day you can hike the Ihlara–Belisırma section and have dinner by the Melendiz in Belisırma.
Gelveri bread and local flavours
Gelveri bread, named after the town’s old name, is one of the region’s best-known specialities. Try local dishes in the town’s small restaurants or a tea break in the courtyard of a stone mansion. For more, see our guide to Aksaray cuisine.
A suggested half-day route
Güzelyurt is a 45–50-minute drive from Neva Apart. Start the morning at the Red Church, continue to town for the Church Mosque and the Monastery Valley walk, and watch the sunset from the High Church. For a full-day plan combined with Ihlara, see our Aksaray itineraries.
- Neva Apart → Red Church (Sivrihisar)
- Güzelyurt centre → Church Mosque → Monastery Valley
- Sunset at the High Church → return
Where to stay in Aksaray
Neva Apart offers fully equipped serviced apartments with kitchens in Aksaray city centre, a few minutes’ walk from the Zinciriye Madrasa and the Grand Mosque. It is an ideal base for day trips to Ihlara, Selime, Güzelyurt and the Seljuk caravanserais.
Browse our apartments, read guest reviews or contact us for bookings and route tips. Every stop is listed on our things to do in Aksaray page.
Sources
Image credits
- Güzelyurt town and reservoir seen from the Yüksek Kilise hill – GMM, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
- An old street between stone houses in Güzelyurt – Julia Maudlin, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons
- Church of St Gregory of Nazianzus (Kilise Camii) in Güzelyurt – Klaus-Peter Simon, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
- Panoramic view towards the Monastery Valley and the Church Mosque in Güzelyurt – Nurbanu Karaman, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
- The Red Church (Kızıl Kilise) near Sivrihisar village – Christian1311, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons